Putting a caravan into long-term storage is not just "lock it and walk away." Caravans that sit unused for months without preparation come out the other side with damp, flat batteries, perished seals, and surprises in the water system. None of those problems are difficult to prevent — they just need a methodical pre-storage routine.
This guide walks through it in the order most people find easiest to work in: outside first, then inside, then the technical bits.
Exterior
Wash the caravan thoroughly. Road salt, tree sap, bird droppings and traffic film are corrosive over months. Use a dedicated caravan shampoo (not car shampoo, which can strip wax). Pay particular attention to the seals around windows and rooflights — that is where ingress problems start.
Check and treat seals. Walk around with a torch and check every seal. Hairline cracks can be touched up with caravan-grade sealant before they become winter damp problems.
Cover or not? Opinions vary. A breathable, properly fitted caravan cover can protect against UV and tree sap, but a poorly fitted cover that flaps in wind will polish your gel coat dull within a season. If in doubt and you are on a covered or sheltered pitch, leave it uncovered and rely on regular washing.
Interior
Empty everything organic. Food, even sealed packets, attracts mice and moths. Spices, tea bags, tinned goods — out. Cushions and bedding ideally come home with you; if they have to stay, prop them on edge so air can circulate.
Open cupboards and lockers. Air circulation is your friend. Closed cupboards with even slightly damp interiors become mildew incubators. Leave doors propped open by a few centimetres.
Lift cushions. Stand seat cushions on their edges. The same logic — let air get under and behind them.
Damp control. Place a few moisture-absorbing tubs (the calcium chloride type, available from any caravan accessory shop) in the main living areas. Replace at the recommended intervals if you can visit during storage.
Water System
Standing water is the single biggest stored-caravan problem in winter. Frozen pipes split. Stale water grows things you do not want. The fix is to drain and dry.
Drain everything:
- Open all taps (hot and cold) and the drain valves under the floor.
- Empty the water heater fully.
- Empty the toilet flush tank and the cassette.
- Run the pump briefly to clear it (do not run dry for long).
- Leave taps in the open position so any residual water can expand without splitting pipes.
Toilet seal. Apply toilet seal lubricant to keep the seal supple and prevent leaks when you refill in the spring.
Battery
A leisure battery left disconnected over winter usually dies. A battery left connected to even tiny parasitic loads (alarm, radio memory, control panel standby) dies faster. You have three sensible options:
- Take it home and trickle-charge it monthly. The most reliable.
- Leave it on site connected to a maintenance charger — only viable if your storage site has hookups and your charger is rated for unattended long-term use.
- Fully charge it, disconnect both terminals, and leave it. Acceptable for shorter storage periods (a few months), risky for longer.
For lithium batteries, follow the manufacturer's storage advice — most lithium chemistries prefer to be stored at around 50–60% charge, not full.
Tyres
Tyres develop flat spots if a caravan sits in one position for months. The cheap fix is to over-inflate by about 10% (within the maximum stated on the sidewall) before storage. This reduces tyre deformation under static load. If you are storing for very long periods, putting the caravan on axle stands removes the problem entirely.
Check tyre age. Caravan tyres age out before they wear out — the rubber compound degrades after 5–7 years regardless of tread depth. Storage is a good moment to check the date stamp.
Wheel locks. Apply wheel locks even on a secure site. They take seconds to fit and add another layer to the security picture.
Gas
Turn off all gas at the cylinder. Disconnect regulator hoses if your site requires it (some do, on safety grounds). Do not store with gas valves open even if cylinders are turned off.
Documentation
Take a quick walk-around video on your phone before you leave. Date it. If anything changes — damage, damp, theft — you have a baseline record. Note the mileage and any service history items due in the spring.
Final Walk-Around
Before locking up:
- Doors and windows shut and locked
- Roof vents closed but not sealed (air still needs to move)
- Hitch lock and wheel lock fitted
- Gas off
- Electrics off at the master switch
- Photos taken
Then walk away knowing the caravan will come out of storage in the same condition it went in.
Spring Re-commissioning
Worth flagging in advance: when you collect in the spring, do not just hitch up and drive. Rehydrate the water system slowly, check tyre pressures, reconnect the battery, look for any signs of damp, and run the gas system through a leak test before first use. A caravan that has sat for six months deserves an hour of attention before it sees the road.